Scene Magazine

Dining at the W Hotel

Scene — Mon, 09 Jan 2012 20:19:40 +0000

His collection of restaurants, which spans from Las Vegas to New York to Shanghai and beyond, has accumulated a number of Michelin stars and other accolades, and one taste of Market makes it clear that his reputation is well deserved.

By Rachel Leah Blumenthal — Photographed by Jazz Martin

The ambiance is almost Zen-like, interrupted only slightly by quiet indie rock music drifting in from the hotel lobby. Floor-to-ceiling windows reach up and up, providing a clear view of the hustle and bustle on Tremont, the parade of umbrellas on a drizzly and unseasonably warm November evening. The space is marked by sleek angles, wooden beams, fibrous beige place mats, curtains and red candles – real ones, a rare sight in restaurants nowadays. In the center of the room, yellow calla lilies and other blossoms spray out of tall white vases, complemented by small bunches of daisies seemingly growing out of a rock at each table. The modern light fixtures are bare bulbs jutting horizontally out of a bar stretching down from the ceiling; imagine a ski slope t-bar. To my left I see a darker, more intimate dining room, set off by heavy curtains and embellished with a vase of orchids.

The wait staff, clad all in black, moves effortlessly around, appearing ninja-like out of nowhere. It is 6 p.m. on a Thursday, and Market is quiet. Several single diners occupy tables and several more are at the bar, all fiddling with iPads and iPhones. A group of businessmen in jackets dominate a larger table, already onto a second glass of wine. In fact, everyone in the restaurant seems to be holding a glass of wine. The fully stocked bar is accented with elegant blocks of light, and it becomes more crowded as the evening progresses.

We meet Chef Matt Barros, who has been at Market for about four months. He seems nervous – proud of his work and eager to please. I am already a fan of his previous work at Myers + Chang, so I am excited to see what he will do under the Jean-Georges brand. Our server, Ray Carignan, has worked at Market since its opening two years ago.

The meal begins with the Market Vegetable Salad: baby beets, cucumbers, bell peppers, grilled finger chilies, sliced fennel, feta cheese, oil-cured olives, red wine vinaigrette, basil and mint. I generally don’t like feta. Here, though, it’s heavenly. The basil and mint taste like summer. I close my eyes, take a bite, and try to ignore the umbrellas outside. For a simple house salad, this is surprisingly outstanding, and I love the hint of spice as the chilies mingle with the vinaigrette. One of my dining companions, Bobby, raves that he could eat a huge bowl of it. So could I, but it’s time to move on to the salmon and oyster tartare. The oysters are local, right out of the Island Creek oyster farm in Duxbury. The dish is garnished with lemon, mustard oil, horseradish, chives and a few slivers of pumpernickel bread. My dining companions contemplate how best to photograph this lovely dish. Dipping the bread into the tartare, perhaps? My hands are quickly rejected and we move on without a hand model. The dish has a small kick from the mustard oil and horseradish. I’m not used to hotel restaurants trusting the American palate with spice, so I like that they give it a try here.

Next, we taste the Maine lobster, one of the most popular dishes on the menu. Each serving contains one and a quarter pounds of lobster: two claws, the full juicy tail and no shell. Served atop sweet Napa cabbage, it’s flavored with jalapeno, ginger and scallions, and it is sautéed in a potato starch coating to give it a light tempura-like crunch. The ginger plays nicely with the jalapeno. More spice! I think I’m in love. My dining companions are satisfied as well, as evidenced by their unison post-first-bite, “This is awesome.”

The grilled filet mignon arrives, beautifully rare and tender. It comes topped with mustard butter, thyme and chives, and is accompanied by caramelized brussels sprouts, toasted pecans and avocado, a seemingly odd steak accompaniment, but it works. The mustard butter shifts me from my anti-mustard stance. I want to pour it on everything.

By now, the restaurant is bustling and we’re feeling full, but it’s impossible to say no to dessert, especially after Restaurant Manager Jordan Tannenbaum gives us an extremely enthusiastic introduction to the salted caramel ice cream sundae and details the difficult process of making salted caramel ice cream. He did not get our hopes up for nothing: it is as wonderful as promised. The best part? It’s topped with caramel popcorn. The Valhrona fudge sauce, peanuts, and vanilla bean whipped cream don’t hurt, either. The table is silent. “You know it’s good when no one’s saying anything,” says my dining companion Jazz, breaking the silence. (It’s still good.) We top it all off with a taste of a Grand Marnier soufflé with dark chocolate, accompanied by mandarin sorbet and crème anglaise.

Market’s dishes are simple, with ingredients that appeal to everyone, but that’s where the similarities with generic hotel restaurants end. Market goes above and beyond to provide a lounge-like setting where patrons can truly relax and enjoy refined versions of familiar dishes. Although it is part of Jean-George’s grand empire, it doesn’t feel like a chain. Market stands well on its own and will serve the Theater
District crowd and travelers alike for years to come.

Red Lantern: Big Night’s Dining Dynasty

Scene — Sat, 24 Dec 2011 20:47:05 +0000

“In Japan, these red lanterns are known as akachōchin, and during the 18th century, they indicated the presence of an izakaya, a sake bar where you could also nibble on some snacks. Over time, izakayas began to refer to any Japanese bar that served food to accompany alcohol. The lantern that I saw was located outside of Red Lantern, an Asian restaurant and bar which opened this past June.”

It is a large restaurant, able to sit about 250 people, and the décor includes much appealing red and dark wood colors. The main dining section has smaller tables for couples, larger, circular tables for groups, as well as booths with leather clad seats. You can also sit in front of the sushi bar or even at the counter facing the open kitchen with its wood-fired grill and wok stations. There is a separate room with a 40 foot marble topped bar and a couple televisions. In addition, there is the Apothecary room, a private dining area that can hold 40 people.

By Richard Auffrey — Photographed by Jazz Martin

Everywhere you turn, scattered all over the room, you will notice striking Buddha and Asian statutes. If you look up, you will notice the ceiling is filled with red lanterns. The ambiance is hip but with traditional elements that combine in a pleasing décor. It would be a great place for couples or groups, and on a Wednesday evening, the restaurant was packed with a diverse crowd.

The Executive Chef is Kevin Long, who started working in 1995 at Tosca in Hingham. Chef Long is now in charge of all the kitchens of Big Night Entertainment Group, though his primary focus is currently Red Lantern.

They have a fully stocked bar, with a wide range of choices, and their selections are being revised and expanded. Beverage Director Joe O’Connor stated they want the cocktail list to be big and fun, and they have created numerous Asian influenced drinks. You’ll find martinis like the Drunken Samurai, made with Moonstone Asian Pear Sake, Amaretto, and fresh lemon juice. You’ll also find cocktails like the Wasabi Mary, made with vodka and Red Lantern’s Wasabi Bloody Mix. Other special drinks include the huge Scorpion Bowl for four and The Flaming Plum shot.

You will find 16 available wines by the glass as well as over 60 wines by the bottle. Their wine list is predominantly Californian but with French Champagnes and a few wines from other regions like Argentina and South Africa. To my pleasure, they also sell nine sakes by glass and 14 by the bottle. Plus, you will find numerous beers, both draft and bottle.

The food menu is large, but not overly so, and is broken down into appetizers, dim sum, soups & salads, noodles, fried rice, specialties & wok dishes, steaks and side dishes. Some of their specials include a Pu Pu Platter and a Whole Roasted Hong Kong Duck that serves up to four. There is also a menu of reasonably priced sushi, sashimi and maki rolls.

Five of us dined together, including Bobby (Scene’s Publisher), Jazz (Scene’s Art Director), Shaina of Big Night Entertainment Group and Alyson of Elevate Communications. It was a fun group of food lovers so that the conversation never dulled as we sampled and enjoyed the delights of Red Lantern. Our main server was Kai Le, a personable, professional and energetic person, who explained the various dishes and made sure to promptly cater to our needs.

We began with a few small plates to whet our appetite. The Duck Buns include two warm, steamed buns filled with plenty of tender and savory Hoisin duck. They were accompanied by some mirin pickles, an addictive side which were crisp and had a spicy kick to them. The creamy avocado salad, with cucumber, tobiko, crabstick and yuzu, greatly appealed to Shaina and Alyson while Bobby and Jazz were particularly drawn to the Hot & Sour Soup. This soup has 5-spice tofu, pork broth, mushrooms and white pepper. It possesses a deep, meaty taste with lots of umami. Bobby feels this is the best hot and sour soup he has ever had, and it ranks very highly with me as well.

Up next, we tried some sushi and sashimi, including Toro and Dressed Hamachi. The Toro looked so enticing, large slices of well marbled belly, and were silky smooth on the palate. Pure bliss. The fresh Hamachi slices were also appealing with only mild heat and almost citrus flavor. We also tried a few maki rolls and the Crunchy Roll, with salmon toro, tobikko, crab stick, and crunchy bits was the clear favorite, though the Spicy Tuna performed very well too.

I was enamored with the Singapore Street Noodles, a large bowl of thin noodles with pieces of shrimp, scallop, and pork in a Madras Curry and XO sauce. It was a light dish, with great textures and lots of flavor. The Mongolian Steak, slices of skirt steak with garlic, ginger and mushrooms, would please any carnivore with its tender beef and rich flavors. It was accompanied by a bowl of sweet potatoes with a crispy exterior and a soft, sweet interior. The Tik Tok Chicken was another winner, with chunks of water chestnut golden chicken, atop white rice and topped by crisp wonton chips. It has a blend of sweet and spicy flavors, with mild tastes of orange.

Frankly, I would even come to Red Lantern just for dessert. The Pineapple Bread Pudding, with coconut ice cream, was superb, a perfect blend of tropical flavors. The bread pudding had a nice firm, but soft, texture and it was bursting with a fresh pineapple taste. The Tempura Bananas are like banana-filled spring rolls and the dish is large enough for two people. The Bread Pudding is also large enough for two people, but you might not want to share because it is so delectable.

Overall, I was very impressed with Red Lantern. It is reasonably priced for the quality and quantity of their dishes, and there is something for everyone, no matter their preference. Take a group of friends to Red Lantern and have a fun and delicious evening.

Sugar Plum Margarita

Scene — Fri, 23 Dec 2011 19:47:59 +0000

“The nutcracker. I got the idea based on the sugar plum fairy. When I looked into it, I found that sugar plums didn’t exist. So, I created a sugar plum margarita. I made a sugar plum simple syrup using dried apricots, figs, plums and sugar, reducing it to a syrup.”

Juan Lozano — Temazcal

Juan’s Sugar Plum Margarita

1½ ounce of Don Diego Reposado Tequila
1 ounce of sugarplum deduced syrup (5 dry figs, 10 dry plums dry apricots, cherries, sugar, lemon, water, cardamom and ginger spices)
½ ounce of lemon juice
A dash of cherry liqueur for deeper color
Garnished with a fresh plum rolled in cinnamon and sugar

Vixen’s Nightcap Holiday Cocktail

Scene — Fri, 23 Dec 2011 19:37:04 +0000

“I feel that mint really represents the season. It will warm you up on a chilly evening. This drink is a lot like me. It’s pretty on the outside, but packs a punch. It has an attitude.”

Erin Zalaski — Davio’s

Vixen’s Nightcap

1 ounce Stoli Vanil
1 ounce Godiva White Chocolate Liqueur
1 ounce Navan Cognac
¼ ounce Fernet Bracna Menta
Dash of Aztec Chocolate Bitters
Dash of Chocolate Love Tonic Bitters

For the cream topping:

¼ ounce green creme de menth
3 dashes of mint bitters

Garnish with milk chocolate and white chocolate shavings on whipped cream

Holiday Eggnog Recipe

Scene — Fri, 23 Dec 2011 17:13:56 +0000

“Eggnog is a pretty traditional holiday drink. It really showcases the flavors of the season by using nutmeg and cinnamon”

Michael Rose — Woodward at the Ames Hotel

Holiday Eggnog

1½ ounces of Sailor Jerry Rum
½ ounce of Tuaca
1 ounce heavy cream
1 whole egg
Garnish with cinnamon and nutmeg

Raspberry Velvet Martini

Scene — Fri, 23 Dec 2011 16:54:44 +0000

“Everybody likes the taste of something sweet this time of year.”

Nelse Karini — Bricco Ristorante

Raspberry Velvet Martini

1½ ounces Stoli Razberi
½ ounce Triple Sec
Fresh squeezed lime juice
Splash of cranberry juice
2 splashes of Chambord

Hot Buttered Rum

Scene — Fri, 23 Dec 2011 13:07:41 +0000

“Living in New England, rum has always been a huge part of our history, of colonial times. So it has a soft spot in my heart. Growing up in Connecticut, my mother did not make hot buttered rum; it is something I discovered as an adult. The cinnamon and nutmeg are familiar to my pallet, bringing me right to the holiday season.”

Kevin Martin — Eastern Standard

Holiday Eggnog

Cheers to the Holidays!

Scene — Fri, 23 Dec 2011 11:58:23 +0000

It’s in the Crackle of the fireplace, the long dark nights, the twinkle of lights being strung and in the tastes of ginger, cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. It’s beautiful red velvet and peppermint delights, it’s sparkly libations for lively occasions.

With seasonal ingredients imbuing the essence of the holidays, these cocktails are sure to warm you up on cold winter nights. As a bartender, there is nothing better than using the best ingredients of the season to embody the holiday spirit. Perenial favorites provoke sweet tastes of nostalgia. This particular bunch of cocktail movers and shakers has the “tradition with a twist” down pat. I love not only making these drinks, but visiting some of my favorite spots around town this time of year to taste what the winter has in store. These sumptuous creations inspire both the naughty and the nice this holiday season.

1½ oz Absolute Vanilia
½ oz White Crème de Cacao
½ oz Peppermint Schnapps
Garnish with candy cane

Celebrate the Holidays with Giada De Laurentiis

Scene — Fri, 23 Dec 2011 11:05:18 +0000

What are you looking forward to most this holiday season? Just being with my family. It’s the only time of year that the entire family gets together. There are about 30 of us by now and it’s also the one-year anniversary of my grandfather passing away this holiday so I think it’ll be really special for all of us.

Do you have any special traditions that you and your family partake in over the holidays? Of course! First of all, we all join in the kitchen to cook and each of us takes on some kind of task. It used to be that my grandfather assigned the tasks but now that he is no longer here it’s my aunt’s job. We decide who delegates chronologically in age so I have not made that step yet. So my aunt Raffi calls the shots and tells everybody what to do, even me. Another family tradition is a card game that we play every year. It’s a Neapolitan card game and we play for money. No joke, it’s super duper fun! It’s basically sort of a high level go fish.

What is your absolute favorite holiday food? Pannetone is my favorite. It’s that buttery flavor I love so much. We all get them for Christmas. It’s the one gift you know you’re going to get from your family and friends. Actually, for years it was the one gift I gave everybody too.

What does your family traditionally eat for Christmas dinner? We sort of do our own version of the Feast of the Seven Fishes. We don’t actually have seven courses of fish but we definitely don’t have any meat. And we usually have some kind of pasta as well. Lately I’ve been trying to push my family to do a cioppino with lots of different fish in it. I’m trying to change it up a little and make it a little more modern, but I’m still working on that. My aunt Raffi hasn’t quite swallowed the idea!

Does your daughter Jade like to help you in the kitchen this time of year? She is three and a half now so she’s very aware of helping in the kitchen. Jade would love to be able to chop things, so my husband and I got her a plastic knife so that she can chop alongside me. She also does a lot of stirring of pots, I have to hold her up and make sure the pot doesn’t go anywhere! She is definitely learning quickly!

The Perfect Holiday Libation

Scene — Tue, 20 Dec 2011 18:23:15 +0000

By Sophie Daniels — Photographed by Jazz Martin

Serves 6 – 8

For Dough:

1 ¼ cups all purpose flour
1 large egg beaten in a small bowl
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
3 tablespoons vegetable shortening (such as Crisco)
2 tablespoons hot milk
1 tablespoon baking power
1 tablespoon sugar
pinch salt

For Filling:

4 firm but ripe D’Anjou Pears
4 tablespoons honey
1 whole fresh vanilla bean
10 cardamum pods, (found at specialty spice shops)
1 teaspoon vanilla bean extract
2 tablespoons salted butter, cut into pieces

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Put all the dough ingredients, except the hot milk, into a bowl. Stir well with a wooden spoon until the mixture starts to combine. Add the hot milk and stir until well mixed, but work dough as little as possible. Place the soft dough in a 9 inch pie plate, or fluted metal quiche pan using ones fingers, (use a bit of extra flour on hands if dough sticks), press dough into the pan until it covers the bottom and sides.

Meanwhile, cut vanilla in half lengthwise, and then into 1 inch pieces. Add vanilla bean pieces and cardamom pods to honey and heat on low for 20 minutes in a small saucepan. Once removed from heat, strain to remove solids. Next, slowly stir in butter, a few pieces at a time, and vanilla bean extract.

Peel, core and halve the pears. Cut each half into 6 slices and fan out wedges on the dough like a wheel, making one concentric circle, followed by another, until all dough is covered with pear slices.

Even pour honey mixture over entire tart. Bake for approximately 45 minutes, or until crust is golden brown.

Moscato (MA-ska-toe), as it is know in Italy, is a member of the Muscat family. In fact, Moscato di Canelli and Muscat Blanc are the two most desirable grapes of this vinifera as they produce wines with great aromatic intensity.

Perhaps the oldest of all domesticated grapes varieties, Moscato/Muscat can be found growing all over the world. It is used to produce wines ranging from sweet and fortified, to floral and dry; which may be still or sparkling, or somewhere in the middle. But the unmistakable aromatic profile is striking, and it is among the only wines to truly taste as the grape does when picked fresh from the wine.

Its perfume is a dizzying mix of floral components, such as roses, orange blossom and honeysuckle, spice notes, such as clove and nutmeg, and luscious fruits, such as ripe peaches and pears.

On the palate exuberant flavors of lichee fruit, honey or apricot may mingle with hints of candied pineapple. Because the flavors are predominantly sweet, Moscato/Muscat is most often served as a dessert wine; and one of the best examples of this is Moscato d’Asti, from the Piedmont region of Italy.

Low in alcohol and frizzante, Moscato d’Asti will tickle the tongue with a slight effervescence, show sweetness through the mid palate, and should finish with a bit of refreshing acidity. The pale golden hue and gentle bubbles make this wine a natural during the holidays!

Try serving it when guests are first arriving, as a festive way to welcome them to the celebration. It pairs remarkably well with a variety of h’ordeuvres, as the salt in savory bites will bring out its vibrant grapey quality.

It naturally pairs well with dessert, such as the classic Italian Pannetone, fresh fruit, or light pastries. This year, try it with the Vanilla Scented Pear Tart to harmonize with its inherent spicy and fruity characteristics.