In my quarter century of following the wines of the world, perhaps none has undergone a more radical transformation than the wines of Italy. When I started working in the business in one of the largest wine stores in the state, the Italian White section of the store consisted of three wines that looked suspiciously brown in color instead of white (the reason being they spent so much time in old oak barrels that they were ‘over the hill’ before being bottled). The Chiantis were thought of as one step up from vinegar. Many bought them to make a candle holder from the decorative woven straw covered bottle called Fiasco, either using the wine to cook with or pouring it down the drain.

By Len Presutti CWE

How things have changed! The white winemakers were forced, of necessity, to re-examine their methods. They did a 180-degree turn, embracing modern temperature-controlled fermentations in stainless steel, protecting the wine from the premature aging effects of oxygen exposure and retaining primary fruit aromas and flavors. The results were some of the most complex, alluring, delicious and food-friendly whites the world has ever seen, combining gorgeous fruit and acidity with lovely minerality and nut-like nuances.

Italian reds underwent a similar transformation. The (red) Chiantis of the day were required by law to contain a significant percentage of white wine. In addition to the Sangiovese and Caniolo grapes, they were forced to include Trebbiano and/or Malvasia. In theory, this would soften the wine, making it more approachable early on, and increasing its aromatics. In fact, the huge yields of these added white grapes diluted the wine, making it thin and dramatically increased the wine’s acidity, throwing it out of balance. People worked from both within and without the system to correct this.

Those who worked outside the system felt that they should make the best wine possible, regardless of the regulations. After all, their name was on the label. This meant making a wine that couldn’t be called Chianti. In most cases they used the ‘Vino di Tavola’ or ‘table wine’ moniker. This was the lowest classification, similar to the jug wine category in the U.S. Many of the wines were wildly successful, such as Sergio Manetti’s Montevertine (especially his Le Pergole Torte, one of the first Super Tuscans, even though it was made from 100% Sangiovese) and Antinori’s Tignanello, one of the first to include Cabernet Sauvignon with the Sangiovese. Because of the embarrassment of the government (these wines sold at even higher prices than the best Chiantis) they created the IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) category to accommodate them and give them formal governmental approval.

Others felt that, since their family had been making Chianti for generations, they were compelled to work within the system to effect change (which came slowly and took decades). Now one can have up to 20 percent Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot in the blend and still call it Chianti Classico (if the grapes come from that region).

What better time than spring, the season of renewal to celebrate the rebirth of perhaps the greatest wine making (and consuming) country on earth, Italy!