My father, an incredible chef and full-blooded Italian, used to tell me that the only way to truly judge the quality of a restaurant was by tasting its olive oil, and my own experience has only proven this maxim. The best olive oils, I find, can stand alone – salt, pepper and balsamic only an obstacle to its unique and opulent flavor. Find an Italian who knows good bread, and it is almost a guarantee that they know good olive oil. A key ingredient in much of the North End’s most sought after fare, olive oil has unquestionably earned the epithet of liquid gold.

By Lauren Bellucci

The olive has an extraordinary and complex history separate even from its traditional role as a source of sustenance. Olives were initially cultivated in Syria, around 6000 B.C. For thousands of years, olive oil was used in sacred rituals of many religious sects to anoint priests, and as the base oil used to consecrate altars and buildings of worship. Early Greek kings and athletes were also blessed with olive oil. This sacred substance served as a lamp oil and as a foundation for moisturizers and cosmetics in Egypt as early as 1500 B.C.

Around the same time, olive oil was becoming popular in Greece, and quickly became an important culinary fixture in Crete. Classic mythology credits Athena for the introduction of the olive into Greece. The legend holds that Athena and Poseidon both desired a certain city, and decided to compete for it by seeing which of them could offer the city’s people the best possible gift. Poseidon offered warhorses, while Athena presented the olive, which provided the citizens with wood, food, and oil for medicine, heat and perfume. Athena’s gift was more useful and peaceful, and so the city was called Athens and the olive branch received its reputation as a symbol of peace.

Today, Italy, Greece and Spain produce the largest quantities of olive oil and harbor olive groves as sprawling and impressive as any vineyard of the region.

When faced with the countless bottles, lined neatly on the shelves of a grocery, deli, or wine shop, it is easy to get lost in their amber reflections and become overwhelmed with the question of which olive oil is best. It truly comes down to personal taste and how much you want to spend. When especially pressed for cash, I have even enjoyed a Stop & Shop brand of olive oil with a loaf of simple Italian bread.

There are noticeable shifts in and improvements in taste based on the classifications of the oil and the regions where the olives are grown. Italian olive oil, much of which is produced in Puglia, is considered to be some of the best. Oils from central Italy tend to be spicier. I love Castello di Verrazzano, which is grown near Florence, for its rich, slightly peppery flavor, smooth texture and beautiful, faintly green tint. Spanish oil tends to have a stronger flavor, less attractive to the American palate, but brands like Columela are milder, with balanced, yet bold flavors. Greek olive oil (like Biolea,) is very popular, often described as having a more “fruity” flavor. In the US, California is the primary producer of this most sought after substance and offers many adaptations of oil.

The process of bringing the olives from branch to bottle is complex. The title “extra-virgin” is awarded only to oil from the most delicately processed olives. They are hand picked and slowly cold-pressed, a process by which they are ground into paste, and only very lightly heated. The resulting paste is spread across hemp mats, which are pressed together to yield the highest grade of oil. After the oil is processed, it is tested on flavor, color, and aroma, and will not receive the label “extra virgin” unless it has less than one percent oleic acid – a fatty acid that can spoil the taste.

Extra-virgin tends to be more expensive than other types of olive oils because the olives are handpicked to avoid bruising the fruit and, because it is pressed with minimal heat, less oil is produced and more of the olive is wasted.  Though this lengthy process contributes to its higher price, many will argue that it is worth every penny, for there are fewer tastes more luxurious than excellently prepared olive oil. Extra virgin is also the healthiest, retaining the highest levels of polyphenols (antioxidants) and vitamin E. Because of its subtle, sumptuous flavor, it is almost a waste to sauté or cook with extra-virgin olive oil; instead, it can be best appreciated drizzled over mozzarella, mixed with some fresh tomatoes for a scrumptious bruschetta, or simply soaked into some fresh Italian bread.

Virgin or superfine virgin oil can be either olive oil that didn’t meet the exact specifications to qualify as extra-virgin, or the oil yielded from a second press. Bottles marked “Pure” olive oil are actually of a lower quality, the result of a third press, usually harvested mechanically or pressed with a higher heat.

In addition to providing an enticing savory experience, olive oil has many health benefits. It contains high levels of mono-saturated fats, which help the body to combat bad cholesterol (LDL) and can even reduce the risk of colon cancer and heart disease, if used as a substitute for other fats, like butter. It is an excellent moisturizer, can be used to soften skin and cuticles, and a tablespoon  of this delicious elixir can cure and upset stomach or soothe an aching throat.

Jean Louise Calment, the world’s longest living person, who made it all the way to 122, credited her longevity and vitality to laughter, port wine and olive oil, which she consumed daily and used as a moisturizer. Incredibly versatile, useful, and beneficial, olive oil is one of the most delicious “health foods” available. Partaking in bread and oil is nearly an Italian ritual, a ceremony that excites the palate and merrily kicks off the meal. Easily found in wine shops, restaurants, and groceries throughout the North End, this simple sensation is both a precious staple and a culinary wonder. A valuable ingredient in the arena of Italian cuisine, olive oil is surely no fools gold.